Munich's Viktualienmarkt

Located in the heart of the old city, The Viktualienmarkt is Munich's oldest farmer's market. It has been in operation since 1807 and its one of my favorite places in the city.

Its easy to lose one's self amongst the stunning variety of booths, over 140 in all, each more beautiful than the next. The market vendors offer every conceivable variety of edible delights, literally from soup to nuts, as well as spices, wines, chocolates, flowers and more.

Of course there are sausages ... by the dozens ...

but by far, its the veritable cornucopia of vegetables and produce which charm me.

I ask you, is that garlic not a thing of beauty? Do those chili peppers not cry out to be taken home and turned into something magnificent? Of course they do. And the real pity is that I've now twice found myself strolling the Viktualienmarkt, eager to buy everything, yet without a kitchen in which to conjure.

They say the third time's the charm ... so I'm making a promise to myself. The next time I visit the Viktualienmarkt, it will be as a shopper ... even if I have to accost some unsuspecting resident of Munich and commandeer her kitchen!

Perhaps a giant cookie will serve as my bribe?

The Viktualienmarkt is open Monday - Saturday from 8:00 a.m to 6:00 p.m. and is located just off of Munich Center's historic Marienplatz.

Guten appetit!

Recipe for a Leaner Meatloaf

Greetings, poor neglected bloglet! Its been a very busy week in Divaland, hence I'm woefully behind in posting, reading, commenting and email. Le sigh.

I expect things will finally ease up towards the end of the week - though I will be out of pocket for most of today and tomorrow.

In the meantime, I've made you some meatloaf! And not just any meatloaf either - a leaner, meaner, thoroughly delicious version that I know you'll return to again and again. With its combination of ground turkey breast and lean ground beef, you'll have all the satisfaction of a traditional loaf - minus some of the saturated fat. Bonus!

Basic Meatloaf Recipe:

• 1 pound of ground turkey breast
• 1/2 pound of lean ground sirloin beef
• 1 cup of chopped onion
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, leaves only
• 1/2 cup of ketchup
• 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil, crumbled
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon Kosher salt
• 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup of seasoned dry breadcrumbs

• an additional 1/4 cup of ketchup and some chopped fresh parsley for coating the loaf

Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground turkey and ground beef. Mix with a fork, or clean hands, until the meats are incorporated. Add the onions, parsley, thyme, ketchup, Dijon Mustard, Worcestershire sauce, dried basil, dried oregano, garlic powder, Kosher salt and black pepper, and mix thoroughly with a fork, wooden spoon, or clean hands, until fully incorporated. Add the beaten egg and 1/4 cup of seasoned dried bread crumbs and mix to combine. If desired you may add up to another 1/4 cup of bread crumbs to bind the mixture, but don't over-do it! You want the mixture to just hold together, it should not be dry to the touch.

Turn the mixture out into an oven-safe 9 x 13 inch baking dish and shape into a loaf, compacting the mixture with your hands. Place the formed loaf in the middle of the baking dish (as seen above) and slather the top with some additional ketchup. Garnish with some chopped fresh parsley or thyme and bake in the middle of a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove from pan, slice, serve and enjoy!

As written this recipe will serve 6 to 8 depending on appetite.

While you could certainly choose to bake the mixture in a loaf pan, I prefer this method. Baking the loaf in a larger dish allows the fat to drain away from the meatloaf, and when its finished you can simply lift it out and leave all that nasty fat behind.

It goes without saying that any leftovers should be sliced and turned into sandwiches ... isn't that the whole reason we make meatloaf in the first place? It is in here in Divaland, just ask the husband!

Eaten fresh out of the oven, or cold on a sandwich, this hearty, healthier version is sure to please. I hope you'll try it!

We'll return to my culinary tour of Germany later in the week ... stay tuned.

Bon appetit!

Wish Fulfillment: Germany Part Two

The year was 1998 and the husband and I were traveling through Germany with his family. We were a large group, nine in all, and when we got to Munich, we split up for part of the day. Six of us had spend the early afternoon wandering around the city and had just completed a tour of the Frauenkirche when, all of a sudden, it began to rain. And by rain, I mean it was pouring cats and dogs - just a completely ridiculous amount of water falling from the sky.

Umbrella-less as we were, we had little choice but to dash across the street as fast as we could and nestle ourselves into a cozy corner of the Nurnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom ... a charming, traditional brathaus just steps away from the church. (Pictured above.) We were tired, we were wet, and we were thirsty. You know what comes next - beer! Big, delicious wheat beers for everyone, and basket of fresh house made pretzels to go along with them. ~happy sigh~ We were cozy as cozy could be; yet, sadly, we were not hungry.

I'm sure we'd eaten lunch somewhere earlier in the day, so we didn't think too much about eating at the time. We sipped our beers, munched on the pretzels and generally enjoyed the warmth of the atmosphere; enjoyed the comfort of being in the exact right place at the exact right time.

As we were seated upstairs, I hadn't noticed the kitchen when we arrived, but I saw it on the way out ... and I very nearly swooned. That tiny kitchen was dominated by a sizeable wood-burning grill, upon which lay dozens and dozens of succulent looking sausages. (Duh, its a brathaus! ) Instantly, I was filled with regret.

Much as I enjoyed our respite at The Glockl, I was so sorry we hadn't taken the opportunity to avail ourselves of the tasty meats! I vowed then and there that the next time I was in Munich, I would have a meal at The Glockl ... and so I did.

The Nurnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom is the Munich branch of one of the most famous brathauses in Bavaria (located in Nuremberg.) They have a history that dates back to 1390 and they are most famous for the small pork sausages indigenous to the Nuremberg region. The sausages are house-made, roasted over an open flame on a grill that burns beechwood, and they are spectacular! You can order them in numbers ranging from 6 to a staggering 50, and each order comes with a choice of sauerkraut or house-made potato salad.

Pictured above is my plate, my wish fulfilled. I demurely chose the 6, wisely chose the luscious potato salad, and happily scarfed them down, adorned with the selection of delicious mustard adorning our table. Suffice it to say, this meal was everything I'd hoped it would be - and perhaps made all the better for having waited 11 years to enjoy it!

I cannot recommend this place highly enough. While located in a touristy area, the restaurant is anything but - in fact, far from it. We were the only non-Germans there. With its wood paneled interior, traditional Bavarian decor, and waitstaff robed in traditional Bavarian garb, The Glockl offers everything you'd want in a brathaus and more. In addition to the wide variety of sausages, they do offer a full menu with daily specials. I'm told the fare is equally good, but, personally, I'd have a very hard time ordering anything but those tasty little brats.

The Glockl am Dom has been operating at this location since 1893 and I expect it will be operating still whenever I next find myself in Munich. It is one of my most favorite places in all of Europe and I will most certainly return. Let's hope it won't take more than a decade this time.

Guten appetit!

p.s. - Just a head's up - The Glockl's website, to which I've linked, is in German. That said, its worth a look regardless and you can download a PDF of the menu with English translations if you're so inclined.

Thirsty Thursdays: Jagermeister Edition

Jagermeister, Diva?! Yes, Jagermeister, readers ... its not just for frat boys anymore!

In my search to bring you a cocktail of German origin this week, I've come across very little to tempt my palate. Mostly, Germany is a beer-drinking country; which is not to say that the country as a whole lacks for "cocktail programs". I'm sure they must exist in places like Munich and Berlin ... though, honestly, on this trip I drank beer and beer alone, so I wouldn't know.

Failing to turn up the penultimate German cocktail, I've decided to explore the wonders of Jagermeister. Laugh if you will, I did ... and then I got serious. And the serious truth is there's more to this mysterious, dark potable than meets the eye.

Jagermeister is an herbal liqueur made from a proprietary blend of over 56 different ingredients and the exact recipe is a trade secret. Its common knowledge that the blend includes cinnamon bark, ginger, bitter orange peel, and a variety of herbs. Certainly I taste notes of licorice, strong notes of licorice, which I enjoy. If you don't, perhaps this brew is not for you. Beyond that ... who knows? What I didn't know, is that Jagermeister actually is made in Germany. All this time I'd been thinking it was the product of some clever marketing agency, aimed at getting young shot-swilling people very drunk, very quick. I was quite surprised to learn that the recipe was developed in 1935 and has been produced in the same way ever since.

While Jagermeister may best be known as a shot - and usually seen in the hands of the young shot swilling crowd - turns out it makes a fine addition to a variety cocktails. Go ahead and Google it, you'll see. I took a variety of ideas from the Jagermeister site, then settled on a hybrid mix with my own special twist. I like to call it the ...

Fall Harvest:

• 1 1/2 parts Jagermeister
• 1/2 part dry, white, vermouth
• 1/2 part POM Wonderful Pomegranate Tangerine Juice
• 1/2 part cold water
• dash of Angostura Bitters

Fill a martini shaker with ice and over it pour the Jagermeister, vermouth, POM juice and a dash or two of bitters. Close the shaker and shake vigorously until the shaker frosts. Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with a slice of crisp apple. Serve and enjoy, repeat as necessary!

So, how does it taste? Strong! I'm not going to lie, this drink probably isn't for everyone. But if you enjoy the herbal, sort of vaguely medicinal, properties of Jagermeister, you'll love it. The POM juice and the vermouth serve to lighten the load, so to speak, and honestly this may be the only time you'll see me add water to a drink. I found it necessary to tame the strength of the Jag and to thin the mixture a bit.

Alternately, you could choose to serve the drink over ice, rather than up, which would also help to lighten things up. Personally, I liked it. Its a deep, rich cocktail that seems just right for the onset of chilly weather. While it may not be the ultimate expression of Jagermeister's versatility - its certainly an intriguing mix.

Previously, my only experience with this liqueur was in the form of a shot ... many moons ago, when I was young and foolish. And those stories are definitely not for public consumption! ~wink~ Now that I'm in possession of a full bottle, my experiments will continue. You've been warned.

Cheers!

p.s. - you'll note that I haven't linked you to Jagermeister's website ... because, in a word, it sucks! ;)

The Ethnic Diva: German Food Edition, Part One

Of course the first thing you must do when visiting Germany is order a beer ... and so I did - a wheat beer to be exact. Yum! The German beer was every bit as delightful as I remembered it to be, and the food was even better!

We dined at our inn the first night, in the cozy, wood paneled, dining room of the Jagst Muhle. Simply put, the food blew me away. Given that the hotel was located in a small village in the Jagsttal Valley, I was expecting a homey, comfort food type meal ... instead, we were treated to something more akin to a 5 star dining experience!

The meal began with a wonderful amuse bouche - a savory bit of braised beef cheek tucked inside a small square of puff pastry and topped with a dollop of pureed cauliflower cream and a beautiful frond of micro-parsley. Heavenly!

Mama Diva, my father-in-law, and I followed that with the dish you see above, a succulent steak that had been roasted to perfection, medium-rare, and topped with an unctuous nest of crisp, caramelized onions. The rich gravy beneath it was so incredibly flavorful I nearly licked the plate. Apparently, this dish is traditional for the area - and I can see why. It was outstanding!

The husband and Papa Diva dined on roast venison, sauced with an equally magnificent gravy and paired with a compote of red currants and a slice of sauteed pear. Normally, I'm not a fan of game meats, but the husband urged me to try a bite. I'm glad I did. It tasted like the most wonderful, tender pot roast I'd ever had. Pure comfort in every bite.

Naturally, our table was also graced with a stunning basket of breads; served with rich, creamy, salted butter and a luscious puree of herbed cottage cheese for slathering. Divine! As if that wasn't enough, the main courses were accompanied by gigantic bowls of thinly sliced herb-roasted potatoes and fresh, house-made, spaetzle. Color me delighted ... and full!

So full that we had to pass on dessert. More's the pity, I'm sure it would have been fantastic. Suffice it to say, we dined like kings and our German vacation was off to a very good start.

I cannot recommend the Jagst Muhle Inn highly enough. The setting is gorgeous, the rooms large and comfortable, and the food is simply magnificent. The Chef came out to greet us at the end of the meal and he was a doll. He told us that both the beef and the venison were locally raised, within a mile of the inn. I wish I'd thought to take a picture of him, and more than that, that I'd written down his name. What can I say, I was beyond jet-lagged at that point and soooo ready for bed!

The breakfast buffet at the inn was equally impressive. A stunning array of meats, cheeses, spectacular breads and homemade preserves, cereals, farm fresh eggs, coffees, teas and more. I loved the Jagst Muhle and plan to return to it on my next trip over.

Meanwhile, stay tuned for the return of my regular "Thirsty Thursdays" feature tomorrow. I'm scouring the globe for a German themed cocktail ... if such a thing even exists. It should be interesting!

Guten appetit!

Home

Greetings, delicious ones! I have returned to Divaland after a bout of computer misery and a wonderful trip to Germany. Snowy, wintery Germany, to be precise!

Indeed, I was on vacation last week, far away in the beautiful German Alps ... as well as Munich, parts of Bavaria and the small sweet village of Mulfingan, from which hails part of the husband's heritage.

We covered quite a bit of ground in a short amount of time and, as you can see, the weather was most unusual! Although I had thrown a couple of sweaters into my suitcase at the last minute, just in case, I had no idea we'd find ourselves in a winter wonderland. The pictures above and below were taken in Oberammergau, on a day when the temperature was a balmy 30 degrees F. Wow!

Normally, I'm not a fan of snow - far from it - but in this setting it was altogether charming; rather like finding one's self in the middle of a Christmas card. I loved it while we were there ... but I'm hoping the snow stays in the alps where it belongs.

I have much to report in the way of several delicious meals. The food was extraordinary ... though my pictures may leave something to be desired. I'll be posting more about the trip in the coming days, so stay tuned.

As for the computer woes, well, I'm functioning. My old laptop is dead and I'm up and running on a shiny new Mac. I've been a PC person for so long, the change has been ... interesting. I'm still not sure how to deal with the photos and, clearly, I have much to learn. The important thing, however, is that we're back in business here in Divaland and I'm no longer off-line. Hooray!

I've missed you all and will look forward to catching up with you on your own blogs, as well as filling you in on my trip.

Thanks for sticking with me and we will return to normal here as soon as possible.

Cheers!

Off-line Update ...

Life in Divaland has been a crazy ordeal of computer hijinks this past week. Its a long story and I'll not bore you with it now. Suffice it to say that my beloved Toshiba laptop is dead ... and she was only 3 months shy of her 4th birthday. Le sigh. Does anyone ever get more than 4 years out of a computer? I never have.

Funeral arrangements have yet to be made, though I did observe a moment, er make that 3 days, of silence. Woe is me.

In short, I will not be back in business here on the blog until Monday, October 19th. That, too, is a long story and I will tell it to you then. I've missed you all and will look forward to catching up on the 19th.

Happy weekend and happy cooking!

~Diva