Braised Red Cabbage

We may be nearing the end of October, but its never too late to enjoy a German classic in celebration of Oktoberfest. I may be a bit behind the curve with this one, as the classic Bavarian festival traditionally takes place in late September, but those in the know know I like to get my wurst on from time to time.

I've never been a huge fan of sauerkraut, especially of the pre-packaged variety, so I opted to pair some lovely little bratwursts with a traditional Bavarian side: braised red cabbage. This gorgeous dish makes a fine bed, and wonderful foil, for the savory links. It has just enough acid to balance the porky goodness and just enough crunch to keep things interesting.

Braised Red Cabbage:

• 1 small head of red cabbage
• red wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 large apple, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
• 1/3 cup of thinly sliced onion
• 1 1/2 cups non-fat, low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar (or granulated sugar, agave nectar)
• 1 small onion, peeled and studded with 3 whole cloves
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• pinch of Bavarian Seasoning, optional
• small pinch of cayenne pepper, optional

1. Remove the tough outer leaves of the cabbage, cut it into quarters, and remove the core from all sections. Using a very sharp knife, slice the cabbage into thin shreds, one quarter at a time. As soon as each section is sliced, place the shreds in a large bowl and drizzle with a bit of red wine vinegar, tossing to lightly coat. This will help preserve the vibrant color. Repeat until all cabbage is sliced and tossed with vinegar.

2. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed, saucepan over medium high heat and add the olive oil. When hot, but not smoking, add the cabbage and toss with tongs to coat. Continue tossing gently until the cabbage begins to wilt a bit, about 2 to 3 minutes, then add the apples and sliced onions and saute together for 1 minute.

3. Nestle the clove studded onion into the mixture and add the remaining ingredients, seasoning to taste with the salt, pepper, Bavarian Seasoning, and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine. Allow the mixture to come to the boil, cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Taste the cabbage at the 30 minute mark. Adjust seasoning if necessary, adding more of whatever you wish. I happen to prefer a bit of crunch here, so I generally don't simmer beyond 30 minutes. If you prefer a softer texture, continue simmering for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until your desired texture is achieved.

As written, this recipe will serve 4 to 6, depending on portion size.

Enjoy!

Wish Fulfillment: Germany Part Two

The year was 1998 and the husband and I were traveling through Germany with his family. We were a large group, nine in all, and when we got to Munich, we split up for part of the day. Six of us had spend the early afternoon wandering around the city and had just completed a tour of the Frauenkirche when, all of a sudden, it began to rain. And by rain, I mean it was pouring cats and dogs - just a completely ridiculous amount of water falling from the sky.

Umbrella-less as we were, we had little choice but to dash across the street as fast as we could and nestle ourselves into a cozy corner of the Nurnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom ... a charming, traditional brathaus just steps away from the church. (Pictured above.) We were tired, we were wet, and we were thirsty. You know what comes next - beer! Big, delicious wheat beers for everyone, and basket of fresh house made pretzels to go along with them. ~happy sigh~ We were cozy as cozy could be; yet, sadly, we were not hungry.

I'm sure we'd eaten lunch somewhere earlier in the day, so we didn't think too much about eating at the time. We sipped our beers, munched on the pretzels and generally enjoyed the warmth of the atmosphere; enjoyed the comfort of being in the exact right place at the exact right time.

As we were seated upstairs, I hadn't noticed the kitchen when we arrived, but I saw it on the way out ... and I very nearly swooned. That tiny kitchen was dominated by a sizeable wood-burning grill, upon which lay dozens and dozens of succulent looking sausages. (Duh, its a brathaus! ) Instantly, I was filled with regret.

Much as I enjoyed our respite at The Glockl, I was so sorry we hadn't taken the opportunity to avail ourselves of the tasty meats! I vowed then and there that the next time I was in Munich, I would have a meal at The Glockl ... and so I did.

The Nurnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom is the Munich branch of one of the most famous brathauses in Bavaria (located in Nuremberg.) They have a history that dates back to 1390 and they are most famous for the small pork sausages indigenous to the Nuremberg region. The sausages are house-made, roasted over an open flame on a grill that burns beechwood, and they are spectacular! You can order them in numbers ranging from 6 to a staggering 50, and each order comes with a choice of sauerkraut or house-made potato salad.

Pictured above is my plate, my wish fulfilled. I demurely chose the 6, wisely chose the luscious potato salad, and happily scarfed them down, adorned with the selection of delicious mustard adorning our table. Suffice it to say, this meal was everything I'd hoped it would be - and perhaps made all the better for having waited 11 years to enjoy it!

I cannot recommend this place highly enough. While located in a touristy area, the restaurant is anything but - in fact, far from it. We were the only non-Germans there. With its wood paneled interior, traditional Bavarian decor, and waitstaff robed in traditional Bavarian garb, The Glockl offers everything you'd want in a brathaus and more. In addition to the wide variety of sausages, they do offer a full menu with daily specials. I'm told the fare is equally good, but, personally, I'd have a very hard time ordering anything but those tasty little brats.

The Glockl am Dom has been operating at this location since 1893 and I expect it will be operating still whenever I next find myself in Munich. It is one of my most favorite places in all of Europe and I will most certainly return. Let's hope it won't take more than a decade this time.

Guten appetit!

p.s. - Just a head's up - The Glockl's website, to which I've linked, is in German. That said, its worth a look regardless and you can download a PDF of the menu with English translations if you're so inclined.

Wurst Fest '09

Papa Diva is the best, so, naturally, I treated him to the worst ... er, I mean wurst! There was a belated Father's Day cookout, chez Mama and Papa Diva, this weekend and a selection of German meats were the stars of the show.

The succulent sausages were procured at Noack's in Meriden, Connecticut and they were spectacular. If you're anywhere near that part of the state, I highly recommend a trip to Noack's. Their products are as fresh and delicious as can be and, trust me, once you're inside you're going to want to by *everything* ... which we very nearly did.

We walked away with an obscene amount of meat: knockwurst, bratwurst, frankfurters and "half and halfs", a special kind of weisswurst made with finely ground veal and pork. Each sausage was more delicious than the next. Noack's products are handmade, home-smoked and nitrate-free. This is an old-school German butcher shop that specializes in a wide, wide variety of quality meats ... and the shop itself is charming to boot.

Pictured above left is their amazing "half and half" and two of their stellar knockwursts. Prior to grilling, I like to give the sausage a quick simmer in a spicy bath of beer. Here's how to do it:

Beer Bath:

• 2 bottles of beer, either lager or brown beer*
• 1 small to medium onion, peeled and sliced
• 2 tsp. pickling spices (I use McCormick's)
• 1 tsp. of mustard seeds
  

Pour the beer into a large sauce pan, add the onion, pickling spices and mustard seeds. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, but do not let the mixture boil over. Once it boils, add the sausages, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes, remove the sausages and cook them on the grill over high heat until thoroughly cooked, and well browned. Serve immediately with a selection of German mustards and enjoy!

A brief word about the beer ... on Saturday I used two bottles of Rolling Rock, because that's what was in Papa Diva's fridge. Here at home, I've used Brooklyn Brown Ale with equally great success. I'm not sure that the style of the beer matters, but the taste most certainly does. Use something you'd want to drink, something delicious, and the results will surely satisfy.


I ask you, is that sausage not a thing of beauty? The quick beer braise lends a bit of flavor and helps to ensure that the meats will be thoroughly cooked and ridiculously juicy. We like to round out the meal with some cooked red cabbage, baked beans, some really nice rye bread and, for purists, some quality sauerkraut. I'm not a purist, so I opted for the red cabbage and some steamed fresh broccoli from bro's garden. It was magnificent!

The cabbage and the kraut came from Noack's as well. Even if you're not in CT, you can sample Noack's delights ... they ship anywhere in the US. Hit up that link to place an order or find directions to their market.

For those in NYC, you can obtain some spectacular sausages of your own from any one of these fine purveyors: Schaller & Weber on Second Avenue @ 86th Street, Koglin German Hams in Grand Central Terminal Market @ Grand Central Station, and Marlow and Daughters Butcher Shop @ 95 Broadway in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

I've given you the know-how and the sources ... now go on and have a Wurst Fest of your own. You can thank me later.

Bon appetit!